Cook Islands: Aitutaki

We arrived for a stay in Aitutaki for a little less than a week. Dad booked a super-swish resort, with our rooms right over the blue, blue waters of the Aitutaki Lagoon. We were sorry to miss our walk-off-the-beach snorkeling maze we had in Rarotonga, but having the puffer fish, crabs, some strange-looking flying-type fish (and the plague-like quantity) of sea cucumbers underneath our feet was quite a novelty.

Unfortunately, the lagoon wasn't as user friendly for reef snorkeling, there wasn't lots of coral (or very deep water) and the white sand was no good for reef fish - no where to hide!. The view was however, was just spectacular, and we made up for it by taking the kayaks out for a spin instead to soem of the smaller islands in the lagoon.

The first night we were there, we caught the boat off our island to the 'mainland' (biggest piece of land in the lagoon) to head out to another Island Night celebration. The cafe we arrived at looked a bit more like it might cave in under the heavy rain, but unlike our last Island Night, at this one the locals outnumbered the tourists about 3:1. The Island night was a real opportunity to party, and to teach some of the younger boys and girls how to dance. As per usual, the tables groaned under solid spreads of local food, especially Ika Mata, a raw fish with lime, coconut milk, tomato & cucumber dish that rapidly became a family favorite.

We took the opportunity to take a lagoon cruise, that got us out to Aitutaki's coral reefs. Unfortunately, it was obvious how much damage had been done to the reef by global warming. The coral bleaching scarring was really obvious. Happily, the coal was still home to hundreds of species of tropical fish, and gigantic clams (fun to tease, if you keep your fingers to yourself). Our guide also led us on a tour of the other little islands in Aitutaki lagoon.. Deserving the rep as a wedding destination, two of the other islands had simple outdoor wedding chapels. And one of the islands that was the scene for "Shipwrecked" a UK series where they stick people on a "deserted' tropical island and see how long they last (2nd season: 3 months, this upcoming season: 5 months). Apparently it took them a fair amount of camera magic to ensure local fishing boats and tours didn't show up in the shots :-) The Shipwrecked cast had built themselves a home made work out gym, bar (with stools), drawing room and multi room 'apartment' - it was quite the site.

Feb 6 was Dad's birthday, and he took off with a local guide to stalk "Bonefish" for the day, which left the girls (plus Wade) to figure out to what to do for his birthday. We decided Champers was a must, so we biked into town (about 8km... I think it's all the exercise I did in the whole 2 weeks) to pick up the finest Aitutaki had to offer... something that tasted like sparkeling apple juice from the local internet cafe/liquor/grocery store at $19 a bottle. It's the thought that counts, right? We got the hotel to make up a chocolate and (what else) coconut cake with some special decorations. Dad insisted that under no circumstances on this vacation would he drink a drink with umbrellas in it. He should know better than to challenge us, we got umbrellas in his red wine, the servers to put it in his beers when they brought them to the table, and had the baker cover the cake in little bright parisols.

Dad (and the guide) came up empty handed (not a huge surprise... Salmon, once hooked swim at about 5km/hr - Bonefish - 25km/hr) He had one hooked, and it got away. (right... ) Well - we had to get hima fish for his birthday! Alden cut down a palm frond a weaved Dad a bonefish from the fronds (Tara at this moment seriously impressed and thinking I would invite my sister to help me survive a shipwreck). Check out the photos to see a shot... it roates through at some point. I have a heap of photos, but apparently I have maxed out my account this month, so you'll have to wait to see the photos from the Island Nights.